Banos

After about 5 full days in and around Quito, it was time to move on to Banos (there's supposed to be a tilde on the "n" but I'm not sure how to put it in on an iPod). Banos is a picturesque town about 3 hours south of Quito, situated in an Andean valley at a lower elevation. Only an hour away from the amazon rainforest, the lush vegetation and an abundance of rivers, waterfalls, and hot springs make it a perfect getaway for those into adventure sports and relaxation. The only hazard is the very active Tungarahua volcano on the same side of the valley as the town, which just recently saw activity last decade. Brushing aside the possibility that lava might flow again on a full moon night, I ended up staying 4 nights.

First thing I got to do was white water rafting down class 4 rapids, which was fun. After a while, you'll realize that paddling is futile, that focus on staying in the raft is more important, and that having a pair of gills would be nice.

After rafting was canyoning, or rappelling down waterfalls. It may seem like a boring sport, because the adrenaline won't kick in until you're staring down the top of a 100ft cliff, timing how long it takes for a drop of water to fall to the bottom, knowing that you're supposed to lower yourself down.

Last activity in Banos was to hurl ourselves off a perfectly functional bridge, or walk the plank so to speak. The people I was traveling with decided to save swing jumping for last. The bridge connects the center of town to the other side of a deep gorge where high waterfalls feed energy to the rapids below. Standing on the plank, a typical jumper would have a few seconds while the operator preps. Some choose to admire the scenery around, some believe it may be the last they see, some close their eyes and imagine they're on the top of a bunk bed, and some don't really intend to jump after all. I counted to 3, and my legs took over and jumped. The ride down was rather enjoyable, but I was puzzled by how readily I just jumped.

I jumped on a bus to Guayaquil to catch a LAN flight to Peru the next day. The peruvians treat their bus travel very seriously. The bus terminal in Guayaquil could very easily be mistaken for an airport or a shopping mall. Like the trains in India, there'll be loads of vendors boarding the buses with food, drinks and other stuff you might need for your trip.

Next up: Learning to paraglide in Lima, Peru.

Mitad del mundo and ecuadorian hospitality

The day after the mountain biking trip, I decided to take an easy day to check out the sights near Quito. I headed to the Telefloriqo, a cable car that took passengers to the top of a bordering mountain for a commanding view of the valley below. On a clear day, the peaks of several volcanos can be spotted. At an altitude just below cloud base, it felt like the ceiling of the city. Instead of carrying up the mountain for a 3 hour hike to the crater of a volcano (yes another one) with the others, I took the next cable car down to go see the "Mitad Del Mundo", or center of the earth. On the way down, I found out that the family sharing the cable car was headed that way too, and offered to take me there. I accepted with no reservations and it turned out to be the nicest demonstration of Ecuadorian hospitality I've known. The Mitad del Mundo is a gigantic monument that marks what the Spanish thought was 0 degrees latitude, separating the northern and southern hemispheres, until modern GPS systems proved it wrong by about 200m. Oh well.

Next up: Moving on from Quito, but first, a visit to Banos

Cotopaxi y Quilotoa

After spending a day checking out the city and acclimatizing to the altitude, I started a two day mountain biking trip organized by The Biking Dutchman to the Cotopaxi and Quilotoa volcanoes roughly 2 hours south of Quito, taking a day for each. At Cotopaxi, we were brought halfway up the volcano by jeep, below snow line, for an introduction to downhill biking. Blasted by cold wind and sleet, we combined all three processes of recalling how to ride a bike, checking the brakes, and figuring out how the gears shift, with the actual act of tearing down the mountain to arrive at a more comfortable altitude. The view was spectacular wherever we rode in the national park. Slowly shifting clouds reward keen observers with glimpses of jagged peaks while wild broncos frolic in the expanse of grassland with their young offspring. I completed the day by wiping out into a bed of wild flowers when my front wheel slid in lose gravel, throwing me off the path.

Day 2 was at Quilotoa, a volcano nested in the home of the Quechua indigenous community. As we made our way to the famous crater lake, we passed impeccably dressed Quechua ladies decked out in panama hats, ponchos and high heeled shoes. As they breeze through the mountainous countryside in their pumps, I started feeling the effect of the high altitude. Altitude affects people at varying degrees, ranging from mere breathlessness, to nausea,dizziness, and complete incapacitation. For me, it was a throbbing headache that downhill rides seem to remedy very effectively. The last leg of the trip was a long ride down a paved mountain pass on which you could be attacked by dogs if you're not riding fast enough.

Next up: Winter time on my left and summer time on my right

Hola! Bienvenidos a Ecuador!

Where would you go if you had a couple of months, tons of saved up energy from a desk job, and little saved up from the desk job?

I hopped on an American Airlines flight to Quito, Ecuador the day after commencement and some furious last minute packing. Armed with pretty much the same gear I brought to India earlier this year, I included a few extras: hiking boots, first aid kit, and a more comprehensive insurance policy. Still in good physical condition, I've planned for an adventure while I still have the luxury of youth everfleeting.

Upon arrival in Quito, I was greeted by hundreds of worried eyes peering into the exit gate for their loved ones due to delays caused by the movement of Air Force One at Miami International. Each Ecuadorian passenger seemed to have a complete entourage of friends, and extended family receiving him at the airport. As soon as I jumped into a cab, the driver gave me a crash course in local delicacies (such as "Cuy" or Guinea Pig) and local hangover remedies as he took me to the Secret Garden Hostel. Rated one of the best in Latin America, the Secret garden charged $10 USD per night for a bed in an 8 man dorm, and features a panoramic view of old colonial Quito from the rooftop terrace. There, travelers compare tales of traveling feats, mugging experiences, and drinking ability. Every now and then, the volunteer staff will herd the most inebriated of the gringos into a party bus, and ship them off to the abyss known as La Mariscal District.

At an altitude of 9200 ft, Quito is the second highest capital city in the world after La Paz, Bolivia. surrounded by Andean Mountain regions, its also one of the most picturesque I've seen. I spent my first day quickly going through the touristy circuit, exploring and orientating myself to the city, checking out churches, city squares, and shopping around for a 2 day mountain biking trip to surrounding volcanoes departing the next day. My first impression of Ecuador is that its a very user-friendly and popular place to travel. Geographically diverse, one can move from the coast, through the highlands, and into the Amazon rain forest in 1 day. People are generally friendly and helpful, but knowing "un poco Espanol" definitely helps with getting around. Although the streets are cleaner and the touts aren't as aggressive as those I've encountered in India, crime rate is higher, and travelers do need to be more vigilant at night when the police collectively take a break. Most restaurants serve set meals priced between $2-3 which includes a soup, drink and main course consisting of rice, fries, a piece of meat, raw veggies in vinegrette, and fried egg. I would usually hate myself if I settle for pizza or burgers when traveling instead of immersing myself with the local cuisine, but since the local cuisine isn't too different, I'm relieved of the pressure to find and try endemic cuisine all the time.

As I travel south to Peru, I'll try to keep this blog updated more frequently than I have been doing, so stay tuned for more!